What makes power windows stop working
Replace the power window motor. If there is no voltage to the switch, the problem may be a broken wire in the bundle of wires that pass between the door and door jam. This wiring bundle undergoes a lot of flexing every time the door is opened and closed, and it is not unusual for wires to break or short out in this area. Open the door and visually inspect the wiring harness that goes between the door and door jam for chaffing or signs of damage.
Try wiggling the harness while pressing the power window switch key on to see if the window works or works intermittently which would tell you the fault is in this area. If you hear motor noise humming or buzzing from inside the door, but the window does not move when you press the switch, the problem is not the switch, motor or wiring.
The problem is a broken window mechanism inside the door. Some power windows use a scissors linkage with a crank mechanism to raise and lower the window. Other power windows use a plastic chain or strip to raise and lower the window linkage. Over time the plastic window drive becomes brittle, and cracks or breaks. This prevents the window from working. This type of failure often happens during cold weather, especially if ice has frozen the window shut and the motor tries to force it open.
The fix is to remove the inner door panel and replace the broken plastic chain or drive strip. Some windows use a steel cable to raise and lower the window. Even if the regulator can remove the window from being stuck, it can get worn out a lot faster. Regular use or aggressive touch can wear the power switch out to a point that it stops working properly. A malfunctioning power switch is the most common reason why a power window is not moving.
Power switch replacement is inexpensive. The series of wires which run between a power window switch and a window motor can get damaged and cause a power window to stop moving. A repair of another component in a power window, for instance, can damage one of the wires, so another repair job becomes necessary.
Mechanics usually know how to fix other glass parts aside from broken windshields , so they are adept in handling power windows problem.
If the fuse box isn't labeled, check the owner's manual to see which fuse is the culprit. Don't go yanking fuses willy-nilly looking for a bad one--you might interrupt the power to the engine management computer, causing poor driveability for 30 minutes or so--or you might reset all the buttons on your car radio to that undersea-alien rock-gospel station.
Fuse okay, but the window still won't budge? Again, are all the windows dormant? If it's just one, you still may get an opportunity to go spelunking inside the door. If it's all four, maybe it's something simpler you can troubleshoot under the dash. At this point, if you've narrowed the fault down to some electrical problem that's not as simple as a blown fuse you need to round up a schematic of your car's electrical system and a voltmeter or 12v test light.
All that's necessary now is to start at the fuse panel and follow the wiring to the switch, and from there move on to the motor, testing along the way for 12 volts. Somewhere, you'll find a loose or corroded connector interrupting the voltage to the motor.
Or, the switch itself might be bad. If the driver's door switch won't open the right rear door, but the switch in the door will, look for either a bad switch in the driver's door or a fault in the intervening wiring.
Carefully backprobe the window switches to isolate any electrical faults in the switches, connectors or wiring. At this point, you probably need to be able to access the inside of the switch panel. On some vehicles, like the one in our lead illustration, you can simply pry the panel up with your fingers and backprobe the connectors. Other vehicles may require that you remove the panel.
Door panels are held on with a bewildering variety of fasteners. Start by pulling off all of the door pulls and handles. The perimeter of the panel is customarily held on fragile plastic studs intended for one-time use. Pry them up carefully, and you should be able to reuse them.
Once you've got the door panel off, carefully remove the weather sheeting. You'll need to replace this later, and you may need fresh contact cement to do so. Warning: You now have the ability to put your fingers into places where fingers normally don't go. As our mechanic pal Lefty points out, "A power window motor has enough torque to put a serious hurtin' on ya if it's actuated while errant digits are in the gears.
Reel and cable window regulators are simple mechanisms, but can be fussy about cable routing and may snag if jammed. As an absolute proof that the problem is electrical, try running a jumper wire direct from the battery positive terminal to the positive side of the motor to see if it comes alive.
Be aware that a few window regulator systems supply 12v constantly, and switch the ground side of the circuit. Each time you press down on the up or down part of the switch, it wears the switch out just a little bit more. If you press it too aggressively or use it frequently, there may come a point when the switch stops working properly. This is the best-case scenario whenever your power windows are not moving.
It is very cheap to replace a power window switch in comparison to fixing the other possible problems. If one switch works and not the other, the switch could be bad or some wiring connecting them may be faulty. There are a series of wires which connect the window switch to the window motor. Although it is uncommon for wiring problems to exist in the door, it is still possible for it to happen. For instance, if another component in your power window system was repaired recently, the mechanic may have inadvertently damaged or cut one of the wires.
In this case, take another trip back to the mechanic to have them fix it. You can also try opening up the door panel to follow the wires from the fuse box to the door switch itself. The window track must be aligned in order for the window to move up and down properly.
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